Grooming Tips · 15 February 2026
So you've decided to grow your hair out. Maybe you've had a skinfade or a tight crop for a while and fancy something longer. Maybe you want enough length on the sides for a slick-back, or you're after a completely different style that needs more hair to work with. Whatever the reason, growing out a fade is one of those things that sounds simple but tests your patience at every stage.
The good news is that thousands of men go through this process successfully. The bad news is that there will be weeks where your hair looks a bit odd and you'll be tempted to walk into the nearest barber and say "just take it all off again." This guide is here to help you resist that urge. We'll walk through the timeline, the awkward stages you can expect, how to style through them, and when you should still be visiting your barber even while growing out.
Hair grows at an average rate of about half an inch (roughly 1.25cm) per month. That's the same across your whole head, but it won't feel like it. The sides of a fade start so short that half an inch of growth is dramatic. The top, which was already longer, will feel like it's barely changed. This difference in perception is what makes the grow-out feel uneven, even when technically everything is growing at the same pace.
Here's roughly what to expect if you're growing out from a standard skinfade with a couple of inches on top:
This timeline varies depending on your starting length, hair type, and genetics. Curly hair takes longer to show visible length because the curl pattern compresses it. Straight, thick hair grows out the fastest in terms of noticeable change.
The sides of a fade are cut to be very short. As they grow, the hair has no established direction yet. It sticks out, puffs up, and generally looks like you forgot to get a haircut rather than chose not to. The area above and behind the ears is usually the worst culprit.
What helps: A heavier product like a clay or wax, applied specifically to the sides, can weigh the hair down and encourage it to lie flat. Push the sides back or down with your fingers after applying product. A hat is also a legitimate strategy for particularly bad days, and we say that without judgement. If you want specifics on which products do what, our guide to hair products for men has you covered.
This is the stage that breaks people. The sides have grown out enough to add width to your head, but the top hasn't grown proportionally longer to compensate. The result is a shape that's wider than it is tall, sometimes described as a mushroom or a helmet. It's not flattering and it doesn't look intentional.
What helps: This is where a maintenance trim makes all the difference. You don't need to cut the sides back to a fade. Your barber can take the bulk out of the sides while preserving the length, cleaning up the shape without undoing your progress. Think of it as sculpting, not cutting. A good barber (more on that in a moment) will understand what you're trying to achieve and trim accordingly.
On the styling front, keeping the top slightly more voluminous helps balance the proportions. Use a blow dryer on the top section, directing air upward and back, to add height that counteracts the width of the sides. A light texture powder at the roots gives extra lift.
Once the sides hit a certain length, they start covering your ears. Not fully, but enough to curl over the top of the ear in a way that looks untidy. It's particularly noticeable with straight or slightly wavy hair, where the hair drapes over the ear rather than curling away from it.
What helps: You can tuck the hair behind your ears once it's long enough, usually around weeks 10-12. Before that, a small amount of product pushed behind the ear can train the hair to sit there. Your barber can also thin out the hair around the ears during maintenance trims to reduce the bulky, folding effect without removing length.
Here's the most important thing to understand about growing out a fade: you should still be visiting your barber. Growing out doesn't mean abandoning all professional haircare for six months. It means shifting what you ask for.
During the grow-out process, book a trim every four to six weeks. Tell your barber you're growing it out and what you're ultimately aiming for. A good barber will know exactly what to do: clean up the neckline, reduce bulk from the sides without taking length, tidy the shape so it looks intentional, and keep things proportional as different sections catch up to each other.
This is the difference between looking like you're growing your hair out on purpose and looking like you've simply stopped getting haircuts. It's a subtle but significant distinction, and it costs you nothing extra on top of a standard trim.
If you want more detail on how often to visit during different stages, have a look at our guide to how often you should get a haircut.
Your product needs change as your hair gets longer. What worked for a tight fade won't necessarily work when you've got two inches on the sides. Here's what to reach for at each stage:
One product that's useful throughout the entire process is a good conditioner. As your hair grows, the ends are older and more prone to dryness and splitting. Conditioning two to three times a week keeps things smooth and reduces that wiry, frazzled texture that growing hair sometimes develops.
You won't be able to achieve your target style until you've got the length for it. In the meantime, here are styles that work at various in-between stages:
A few things that trip men up during the process:
The best thing you can do is tell your barber what you're working towards. Whether it's a longer swept-back look, a curtain fringe, or just more length all over, we can plan each maintenance trim to get you there as cleanly as possible. Every head of hair is different, and what works for one person's grow-out might not work for yours.
At BB's Barbers, Andrew and Isaac have helped plenty of clients through the grow-out process. We know which sections to trim and which to leave alone, and we'll be honest with you about what's realistic for your hair type. Pop in for a maintenance trim or book online whenever you need us. And if you're starting from scratch, check out our skinfade services to see where most grow-out journeys begin.